La Sal Traverse: Mount Tukuhnikivatz

October 9, 2015

Day 3

"May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds."

--Edward Abbey

Mount Tukuhnikivatz and Medicine Lake.

After a peaceful night along Medicine Lake, we watched the sunrise, reflected in the water's glassy surface. The air was crisp and La Sal Pass covered in frost. Once we were up and about, we decided to summit Mount Tukuhnikivatz, the third tallest peak at 12,482 feet. The conditions were perfect for it that day, as it was too windy the day before. More snow had melted as well, making it easier to scramble up and over the talus. The Tuk Trail would lead us up to the summit ridge. From then on, it would be off-trail until we would reach the top. On the way up, we met a couple from Louisville who reached the talus and became uncomfortable with its shifting, and so they turned around. Once we began the ascent that they were fearful of, I became nervous as well, but I persisted. I had been staring at this mountain for over a year now and had desired to get to know it more intimately. Because of my ego and stubborness, I was determined to climb that mountain! Freebird made it to the top before me while I lagged behind. Hundreds of ravens flew over our heads, summited the mountain much more quickly and easily than our legs could get us there. Once at the summit, raven tracks were everywhere, encircling the cairn. Just down the ridge on the other side, there were black bear prints. You could tell that this bear went way out of its way to get to wherever it was going and took a much more difficult route than necessary. Perhaps the bear went over the mountain to see what it could see, just like humans do! Ravens circled around us in the air, performing barrel rolls and dives and calling out to us a variety of sounds, including a cat's meow. One of them almost landed on our heads! Incredible, breathtaking views were seen fromTuk, including the rest of the La Sals, Moab Valley, Castle Valley, Colorado River, Henrys, Abajos, and even the snow-covered San Juans in Colorado. We sunbathed on the peak, though not naked in the snow like Abbey! Nor did we glissade down in his nude style, but rather we descended back down the talus. The clouds were rolling in and it was time to go. Hundreds of ravens continued to fly over us and land on the mountain. For some reason, Tukuhnikivatz is a special peak to them. On the way down, we met our neighbors, Chuck and Ben, who were on their way up. Once we returned to the trailhead of Tuk Trail, we looked back at Tuk and saw that one of them had summited. Another night was spent at the lake, watching the sunset yet again in its waters and having another campfire. A barn owl silently flew by us and snatched an unsuspecting mouse. The stars came out and the Milky Way was again spanning the night sky above us. What a glorious day it had been!

Following are some pictures...

Mount Peale and some golden aspen.

South Mountain as seen from the other side of the lake.

Following the Tuk Trail, with Mount Peale looming ahead of us.

Freebird and Mount Peale.

Off the trail now. Walking the summit ridge to Tuk, which is on the left.

Ascending up the talus stretch, looking back at the middle La Sals.

Some of the ravens that flew over us and circled the mountain.

South Mountain.

Little Tuk and views of Moab and Castle Valleys.

Freebird at the summit and a raven playing with him.

Castle Valley in the distance.

A couple of ravens playing and performing stunts.

Moab Valley.

Raven tracks at the summit.

Black bear track in the snow.

The raven that almost landed on us.

Looking out over the north and middle La Sals.

Posing on our descent back down.

Descending the summit ridge which would lead back to Tuk Trail, on our journey back to the camp.